Lorenzos Costuming

Doublet and Trunkhose worn by Sir Richard Cotton 1618

 

Date Competed:
Janurary 2003

Item:
Richard Cotton slashed doublet and trunkhose.

Materials:
Red outer layer of sateen (slashed)
Black inner layer of sateen (slashed)
White bottom inner layer of sateen
Linen foundation (pad stitched in areas with up to an additional 3 layers)
Gold sateen lining

Reference:
Janet Arnold – Patterns of Fashion. Doublet and trunk hose worn by Sir Richard Cotton.

General Notes:
The outfit is inspired by the reference above more than a reproduction as some aspects did not work in the materials I was using. The materials used were due to cost.

Pictures:

Notes:

Reconstruction

Materials

The materials that were used in the doublet are mostly sateen and linen. These were used for availability of colour matching, and price. It was noticed that the more expensive sateen reacted a lot better to slashing, with less fraying and was much nicer to work with. A heavy linen was used for the foundation of the doublet, and a light linen for lining the trunkhose.


Construction

The patterns were taken from Janet Arnold – Patterns of Fashion. They were redrawn to the same dimensions as listed in the book on paper, cut out and tried. It was found that the dimensions of the doublet and trunk hose were not correct for my body type, so modifications to the doublet length and trunk hose fullness were made. The pattern was redrawn again in paper and checked for dimensions.

After testing the pattern, the front section was cut out, and reinforcing to the stomach area was pad stitched. The original calls for reinforcing layers, along with boning. It was decided at the time of making, as this was the first attempt at a late period outfit, and the boning was not 100% necessary for the functionality of the doublet, it would not be used.

The back linen sections were then cut along with the layers of sateen for the outer shell. These were then tacked together and marked out for slashing. The original calls for pinking rows in-between the slashing, but on actually trying this, it was found to not be feasible. The pinking (with various implements) proved to pull threads in most cases, ruining the section of sateen. After these failures the pinking option was abandoned in favour of just slashing.

Once the slashing was measured out it was cut with a surgical scalpel to ensure a clean cut. Cutting on foam instead of a hard surface also helped achieve a clean cut. The slashes were cut on the bias and no finishing to the edging was done, as the original showed no indication of being finished.

The back halves were then laid out side by side, and checked for consistency of slashing placement. They were not 100% matching, but was altered as best as possible. This problem was fixed in the next slashing panels by slashing all layers at once.

The front sections were made in a similar manor. The linen layer was cut, then all the sateen outer layers. The layers that required slashing were then tacked together only. Then the two sections that needed slashing were laid on top of each other, and slashed in one go to ensure an even and accurate slashing pattern across both panels.

Both sections of front were laid side by side and checked for consistency. Note the tacking has not been removed at this stage to make it easier to sew.

The back halves were sewn together, and the side sections of the front sewn to the back to produce the following result.

The sleeves were then cut, and slashed in the same fashion as the front. Once they were sewn together, the wings were made for the top of the armholes, cored with one layer of linen. The wings were tacked in place and sewn, followed by the sleeves.

The wings for the waist were made first off with a core of 2 layers of linen pad stitched. This was abandoned due to the unwillingness of the corners of the wings to be even and crisp. They were then reattempted with a single core layer.

The trunk hose were then started. After the pattern was optimal for the look, it was cut out and slashed in she same fashion as the fronts and sleeves.

The pants panels (two fronts and two backs) were sewn together, and threads were run in for pleating. The number of pleats were then counted, and the length of the waistband or canion edge measured, ensuring the pleats had an even distribution over the connecting object.

The waistband was tacked to the pants in the layout in preparation for final sewing. The wings were pinned to the doublet. At this stage it looked like the pictures below.

The canions were made, sewn and lined. The pleats were hand sewn onto the linen core in the canions, and the lining then sewn over top to hide the edges.

The lining in the trunk hose is shorter than the outer layers, to provide the lift that makes the bottom bag out. The wings were sewn to the doublet, and collar attached. The collar is cored with 3 layers of linen. After this, the doublet was lined with gold sateen.

Button holes were measured out, and cut. Each button hole is hand stitched around the edges with a button hole stitch for finishing. The gold sateen reacted worse than the red outer shell to being slashed. The buttons were made of linen wads, glued to a sateen outer shell, and shanked.

A hat was quickly made to finish the look. The hat was patterned off a hat worn by one of the Medici family and unaltered in size. The hat is lined with gold sateen and contains one layer of linen coring in the brim.

 

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